Put on your dancing shoes, click your castanets and harness your duende in Andalusia, the birthplace of flamenco. There are plenty of performances going on throughout the year—you just need to know where to look. The best place to start is in the barrios gitanos (gypsy neighborhoods), where you'll find authentic peñas—cultural societies dedicated to the preservation of the flamenco tradition. In most cases they are better in quality and atmosphere than the more touristy tablaos designed purely for foreign visitors, so try to seek out peñas recommended by a local. Here are a few tips on some of Andalucia's top flamenco festivals, schools and attractions.
Taller Flamenco
Seville
Novices with their hearts set on an educational holiday full of duende (the intangible spirit or magic often referred to in flamenco) in the Andalusian capital of Seville should enroll at Taller Flamenco, which, like Carmen Cuevas in Granada, also caters to international visitors (its Website has versions in German, English and Japanese ... click on the flamenco fans to select your choice) and offers a mix of language, dance, singing and music classes. Taller means workshop, and that is exactly what this is: a workshop dedicated entirely to the promotion of flamenco, both through classes and plenty of practice. Musically inclined students can study guitar, percussion and the very complex arts of compás (rhythm) and palmas (clapping). Upstairs, they have classrooms where you can learn some of the important theoretical points that will help you master the techniques, and downstairs they have two studios where you can put your gypsy skirt on and start stomping those feet. Be forewarned that many of the instructors speak limited English, but the school claims that language is usually not a barrier as the experienced teachers have other ways of communicating. Still, if it's imperative for you, try to request in advance a teacher with a good command of English. You can book your own local hotel, but many students stay together in apartments arranged by the school, so they can get to know their fellow flamenco enthusiasts and experience with them some of the fantastic dancing-centric nightlife that Seville has to offer. Prices vary depending on classes chosen and length of program.
49 Calle Peral | Seville 41002 Spain
Peña Flamenca Juan Breva
Málaga
Along with La Platería in Granada, Peña Flamenca Juan Breva is one of the oldest and best-regarded peñas in Spain. Founded in 1958, it was named in honor of one the city's most revered flamenco singers from the late 1800s, Juan Breva, and it's one of the best places on the Costa del Sol to see flamenco performed in a traditional, 19th-century building. During the day, you can also visit the museum there, which has a collection of guitars, photos, personal objects and a library of recordings; much of the collection is dedicated to the passionate Cante Jondo style of singing. Museum visits are by appointment only.
4 Calle Ramón Franquelo | Málaga 29008 Spain
Festival Internacional de Música y Danza de Granada
Granada
With roots going back to 1883, when symphonic concerts were performed at the Palacio Carlos V during the Corpus Christi holidays, the Festival Internacional de Música y Danza de Granada is one of Spain's most prestigious cultural events, in one of its most enchanting cities. Its flamenco origins began in 1922 with the Cante Jondo (“Deep Song”) contest held in the Alhambra's Plaza de los Aljibes, organized by a group that included the great poet and playwright Federico García Lorca, a native of Granada who was fascinated by the flamenco tradition. Today the festival presents a range of Spanish and international music and dance, from classical to contemporary, in such spectacular venues as the Generalife Gardens and the Palacio Carlos V in the Alhambra complex. The 2009 Festival is from June 26 to July 14; tickets from €6; some events are free.
19 Calle Cárcel Baja, 3rd Floor | Granada 18001 Spain
Bienal de Flamenco 2010
Seville
If you want a crash course in the best of the best in today's flamenco world, and previews of young, up and coming talents, then plan well in advance to be in Seville from September 14 to October 9 in 2010. Occurring only once every two years, the Bienal de Flamenco is the major event in the flamenco world's calendar. It presents dozens off performances around Seville by the biggest names in song, dance and music. In addition to the shows and the competition, there are also courses and talks given by experts in many different aspects of this complicated and deeply emotional dance. As if the dancing wasn't enough of a spectacle, many of the performances are being held in some of Seville's most beautiful historic theaters, including the Teatro Lope de Vega and the Teatro de la Maestranza. Tickets from €6 to €40.
Plaza de América s/n, Pabellón Real, Ayuntamiento de Sevilla | Seville 41013 Spain
Peña Flamenca la Platería
Granada
Whether you're in Granada for its annual festival, or at almost any other time, try to see a show at Peña Flamenca la Platería. Founded in 1949, it's Spain's oldest peña (flamenco club), and is widely considered to be one of the best places to see high-quality, authentic forms of the art in a casual, no-frills setting. Walls covered with vintage photos, flamenco fans and other memorabilia are a testament to its long history. Platería is technically a private club, and evening performances are generally only open to the public on Thursday evenings from February through June and again from October through December, but sometimes visitors can sweet-talk their way in on other nights (brush up on your Spanish!) It's also a great place to go for a drink or a snack during the day to soak up some Andalusian atmosphere. NB: the club is closed during the month of August.
7 Placeta de Toqueros, Albaicín | Granada 18010 Spain
Museo del Baile Flamenco
Seville
Since it opened in 2006, Seville's Museo del Baile Flamenco has been a must-see for flamenco fans. The museum is dedicated to baile (dance), and its founder is the acclaimed dancer and choreographer Cristina Hoyos, who is very involved with selecting the dancers that are presented there. Set in a restored, 18th-century mansion with four floors, the museum offers state-of-the-art exhibitions, workshops, performances, and various levels of private and group classes. Visitors can sit outside on the lovely courtyard patio and enjoy a lunch of traditional Andalusian specialties, and peek in on classes in session. On some evenings the patio is transformed into a stage for open-air shows. Don't miss the gift store for CDs, flamenco-inspired fashions and castanets—always a favorite with the little ones.
3 Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos | Seville 41004 Spain
La Cueva de María la Canastera
Granada
For a more rustic, up-close flamenco experience, head to the Cueva de María la Canastera, one of the old cave dwellings of Granada's Sacromente hill, a place where gypsies have lived for hundreds of years. This particular cave was once the home of the famous flamenco dancer María la Canastera, and is now maintained as a museum and club by her son, Enrique. Guests sit on chairs that line the long, narrow space, and the dancers perform right in front of them; the cave's whitewashed walls are covered with photos and paintings of past performers and celebrities who have visited. It's best to call in advance to see if there is a show on any given night. Bookings can only be made for groups of more than 20 people, so smaller parties should arrive about a half-hour before a show—most start at 9.30 p.m—to try and nab a seat. Visitors should also take a moment at the entrance to admire the fabulous views of the Alhambra.
89 Camino de Sacromonte | Granada 18010 Spain
Barrio de Santiago and Centro Andaluz de Flamenco
Jerez
Although perhaps better known for its sherry wines and Andalusian horses, the ancient city of Jerez de la Frontera in the southwestern province of Cadiz is considered by many to be the true birthplace of flamenco, and today the city's historic gypsy quarter of Barrio Santiago is still a vibrant epicenter of the art. Start your visit there at the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco, a cultural center housed in an 18th-century mansion with a Baroque-Rococo courtyard. Dedicated to the history and promotion of flamenco, it exhibits documents, objects, guitars and other musical instruments, as well as audio-visual presentations. Ask the staff to recommend their favorite local peñas, as many of the good ones have recently moved locations. Elsewhere in the district you'll find a number of tablaos that are less touristy than those in Seville. Every winter for two weeks, usually in late February and March, Jerez bubbles over with all things flamenco during its annual festival.
1 Plaza de San Juan, Palacio de Pemartín | Jerez de la Frontera CP 11403 Spain
Escuela Carmen de las Cuevas
Granada
If you desire to really learn this dramatic art form yourself, maybe a mini-sabbatical is in order for you in Andalusia. The best place for non-Spanish speakers to go is Escuela Carmen de las Cuevas in Granada, a combination Spanish language and flamenco school that offers a variety of language, dance, music and cultural history courses for all levels. It's located in the heart of the ancient Arab quarter—a district rich in Moorish architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site—in a traditional hillside building with rooms in caves, a courtyard and terraces overlooking the city. All of the music and dance teachers are artists who often perform in Granada. Students come from all over the world for the popular minimum two-week immersion program, with language classes in the mornings and flamenco classes in the afternoons. Most people take group lessons, but private sessions are available, and you can also study singing, guitar and other musical instruments used in flamenco. Additional activities include lectures and instructor-led outings to Granada's historic attractions. The school can help you arrange accommodation either in apartments, at a hotel or—for true immersion—with a local family, but you can also make your own booking at of one Granada's many exquisite boutique hotels such as Hotel Casa Morisca, AC Palacio de Santa Paula and Palacio de los Patos.
15 Cuesta de los Chinos | Granada 18010 Spain
Flamenco Routes in Andalusia
Andalusia
For flamenco zealots, or any independent spirits keen on renting a car and embarking on a full-on flamenco-themed road trip, the Andalusian tourist board has put together seven different routes that you can take, exploring their suggestions for everything from clubs, guitar makers, shops, museums, and historical sights to hotels, restaurants and music CDs. You can arrange in advance to use the tourist board's special GPS program to help you find your way. Most routes take about four to five days to complete and each has a different theme. The one dedicated to tracing the origins of flamenco guitar starts in the southern port city of Algeciras and heads north, passing through Jerez and other towns associated with guitar legends and ends up in Morón de la Frontera—stopping all along the way to see sights, listen to music and drink sherry in the former haunts of Andalusia's guitar masters, among them Ramón Montoya, master Patiño, and Julián Arcas, who were the first guitarists that played strictly flamenco. For something off-the-beaten path, take the four-day tour focusing on fandango—a local folkloric from of song that pre-dates flamenco—which starts in the the western city of Huelva and takes you north through a mountain range, with stops in the charming towns of Andévalo and Alosno, and ends up in Encinasola, a village near the border with Portugal where the musical traditions blend Portuguese and Andalusian styles.
Andalusian Tourist Board | Various towns and cities, Andalusia Spain
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